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In a chain of out-islands in the Bahamas that look like a strand of jewels from the air, one in particular shines forth: Staniel Cay. Measuring at only 1.9 miles, it is relatively small, as islands go, with a small airport composed of a single airstrip and island-style bungalow office. However, its yachting life is expansive, with power yachts and sailboats of all sizes from all over the world moored in the harbor and dockside. If you look hard, you may glimpse a celebrity or billionaire or two hiding out at the Staniel Cay bar, most likely wearing khaki shorts, a T-shirt, and boat shoes. Honestly things are that low-key. Lined with dried palms and hundreds of flags, its open-air bar and dining area bustles with local islanders and visitors in conversation while Goombay Smashes, among other outstanding drinks, are served along with cracked local conch and fish.
Its calm blue clear waters are dotted with uninhabited isles and those with rather unusual occupants. One houses all of the island’s pigs—row a dingy or ride a jet ski to shore and feed them and, if you are brave, swim right alongside them. They are rather formidable when wet and heading straight for you, red eyes glistening, but that is just my humble opinion.
Better yet, float in on your whaler, anchor and wade to shore, for a brief tour and most likely you will sight a sow and her babies and other colorful varieties, young and old. Occasionally, when a pig is sick or dehydrated, Bernadette Chamberlain, a well-known artist who rents out cottages on the island, transports the sick patient to Staniel where it is nursed back to health and then returned.
Another island is overrun, or even “ruled” by iguanas and aptly named Iguana Cay. This is a phenomenon not to be missed. This cay has many caves and overhangs, where the iguanas lounge during the day on its white sands. As soon as you set foot on its curving shore, they begin to creep out and lumber towards you from all directions. It is beautiful and riveting to see these primeval creatures just inches away from you, at home in their own wild territory. This also happens when snorkeling in Staniel’s waters; be prepared to see turtles, giant rays, inquisitive nurse sharks whom you can pet at the yacht club’s steps that lead to the water. Also gliding by or hidden away watching you are barracuda, lemon sharks, moray eels, grouper, snapper, spiny lobster and much more. You suddenly feel outnumbered and part of the food chain but that is all a part of the adventure that is Staniel. Hopefully something interesting, but not dangerous will happen to you during your outings. Then, you can exaggerate later at the bar. This, too, is what Staniel is all about.