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Story by Christine Fillat
Where in Annapolis can one direct friends and unequivocally say, “Here you will get a fine meal”? For many, the first place that comes to mind is the classic mainstay of State Circle, Harry Browne’s.
Sited with a commanding view of the Maryland State House, sidewalk tables prettily surround the restaurant’s exterior. Known for its vast wine cellar, Harry Browne’s is where Annapolitans bring out-of-town guests to dine on signature cream of crab soup, or hang out in the popular upstairs bar, where one can grab a burger, some flatbread, or bowl of mussels.
It has been here a long time, since 1979, and, with its yellow stucco and green shuddered windows, has a charming facade. A warm glow tempts one to gaze into the large window revealing a dining room both well lit and welcoming. On the night we attended, the restaurant was booked solid with an international set of diners from a NASA convention.
They certainly seemed to be enjoying themselves because, after all, Harry Browne’s interiors are delightful. A wall of gilded mirrors shares space with paintings of vineyards. Globes from the ocean liner Normandie float from the ceiling. There are crisp white tablecloths, and the floors are hardwood. A substantial bar oversees all.
The interior may be a special place with an Old World feel, but the night we dined at Harry Browne’s the food was overall disappointing. The evening’s selections were from the new fall menu, with a promise of “the use of seasonal ingredients.” Homemade meatballs were tender and juicy (though somewhat flavorless), with a simple ragu. The seared tuna with black bean corn salsa and avocado mousse was nicely rare, but the accompanying black bean corn salsa could have used a boost, perhaps with some fresh cilantro. The poached pear salad was pleasantly spiced, with notes of blue cheese, walnuts, and greens.
A panko-crusted cod with celery root puree, wild mushrooms, English peas, and piccata sauce sounded promising, and the first crusty bite was, and then the plate leveled off. Where was the piccata sauce? The mushrooms were present, but not treated as a special ingredient. The celery root puree was more mashed potato than celery root. What happened here? It seems some consideration needs to be paid to the component parts for the dish to be interesting. And then there was the roasted quail—two ample birds, stuffed with a bread pudding, which could have been a bit fluffier, perhaps, to be truly tasty.
For dessert, the restaurant offers a selection of sweets and house-made ice creams. On the waitress’s recommendation, we tried the banana chocolate fondant: a sphere of banana surrounded in chocolate, an appealing combination. Perhaps if the chocolate were better quality, we would have liked it more.
The food at Harry Browne’s is of reasonable quality, but for the restaurant to be really excellent, more attention needs to be given to what goes out the kitchen door.
Harry Browne’s is located at
66 State Circle
Annapolis, MD 21401
410.263.4332
www.harrybrownes.com
Hours of Operation:
Brunch: Sunday 10 a.m.–3 p.m.
Lunch: Monday–Saturday 11 a.m.–3 p.m.
Dinner: Monday–Saturday 5:30 p.m.–
10 p.m., Sunday 4:30 p.m.–9 p.m.
Happy Hour in Lounge: Monday–Friday
4 p.m.–7 p.m.
Lounge Open till 2 a.m.
Christine Fillat lives on the Magothy River and is an aficionado of
Chesapeake Bay cooking and living.
From Vol. 5, No. 6 2014
Annapolis Home Magazine